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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.